To be yourself in a world that is constantly trying to make you something else is the greatest accomplishment. - Ralph Waldo Emerson

Sunday, July 13, 2008

I am a surfer...

I surf!

Ok, well... not really... I mean... not well.

Throughout the course of my life I have had several daring young men try to teach me to surf. It all started when I was 15. So, it's been a while now, although I have only had 3 "lessons." This summer Dizzy, Morgan and I decided that we were going to get good enough to justify buying our own boards.

So, on Saturday Erik took us out surfing. We were the biggest bunch of wankers EVER. But, only because it was SO much harder than it looks and because I wasn't grasping the barnyard analogies (although Dizzy was totally getting it).

And, I have to say everything is bruised... knees... hips... ribs... elbows... and my arms are so sore, I am having trouble typing this. And, the sad truth is I only rode one big wave in on my knees AND I stood up once, but not so much on a wave as after the wave passed.

So, Dizzy, Morgan and I were trying really hard to be big bad surfers... at first... and then we tried not to kill ourselves... we succeeded at the latter... barely.

Erik had to push us into the waves because we couldn't paddle fast enough to actually catch the waves. Finally, I told Erik that I could do it if he just gave me more advanced notice. He started telling me to paddle, so I would furiously paddle and then he'd say "oh wait, there's no wave. I can't really give you more advanced notice than I already was." I guess that's the deal with surfing, if you have ZERO upper body strength, you probably won't ever be a good surfer. Sucks for me!

So, after two hours of getting myself licked by the ocean, I decided I was done. So, Erik pushed me right on top of the wave. It was perfect, I was all over it. But, then I started laughing so hard because I had NO upper body strength left and I couldn't even lift my own body weight.

Today I got an email encouraging me to do "five man push-ups" a night. So, I better go, that should take me forever! And, I am already tired.


Amanda said...

You are so brave. You have my complete admiration. I avoid all situations that require any exertion and/or fighting forces of nature.

Mango said...

Hey I will do the five pushups as well! Maybe it won't be quite as embarrassing the next time around! :)